Castello di Volpaia - Chianti Classico Riserva 2020 (750ml)
| Producer | Castello di Volpaia |
| Country | Italy |
| Region | Tuscany |
| Varietal | Sangiovese |
| Vintage | 2020 |
| Sku | 39495 |
| Size | 750ml |
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Sometimes, to be blunt, you just want the original. I know, I know… I am the biggest proponent of finding the hidden gems from lesser-known regions. And, quite often, there are great deals to be found. But sometimes, the reason an original is iconic cannot be duplicated. In this case, I’m talking Chianti Classico. At only 7100 planted hectares, the region is less than half the size of Napa Valley. The soil and weather are unique to the region and produce wines of singular character – they taste of the place. Terroir in its epitome.
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Castello di Volpaia is actually a village as well as a winery, with a history dating back to the 1100s. The Stianti Mascheroni family actually owns roughly 2/3 of the village and has taken great pains to preserve its archaeological integrity. Most of the employees of the winery live within the village’s walls, sheltered in houses that the Stianti Mascheroni family has restored for this very purpose. The Stianti Mascheroni family also installed an amazing “wineduct” that connects the winery’s stainless-steel fermentation tanks in the upper part of the village to the various barrel cellars in the lower portion of the village. The wine passes by gravity through the stainless-steel pipes that are hidden below the village’s streets. Because the entire village of Volpaia is protected by the Soprintendenza dei Beni Culturali e Ambientali, part of Italy’s Ministry of Arts and Culture, the Stianti Mascheronis were required to number each stone that was removed in the process of building the wineduct, and then return the stones to their original locations once the wineduct was in place.
Okay… that’s all kind of cool, but what about the wine? Well, for me, the most compelling aspect of this wine starts in the vineyard. Volpaia’s estate vineyards are located in the hills above the village of the same name. Compared to the rest of Chianti, these are “high” altitude. The resulting cooler temperatures and greater day/night temperature fluctuation results in more aromatic complexity and an elegant style. In a hot vintage like 2012, the vines deep roots in the alberese soil help find moisture as well as keep the vines cool. The result is an amazingly pure, focused style of Chianti Classico, loaded with dark black cherry fruit, fresh herbs, and the region’s classic sour cherry and minerality on the long finish. Pop and pour, or decant for 30 minutes.
A wine to pair with food, par excellence! Hmm… I’m thinking Tuscan white beans, liberally studded with fresh tomatoes and thyme. You can go veggie and top with wilted spinach, or add a grilled pork chop for a heftier combination.
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